Simple Exfoliation Techniques: a first step in spa body care

Exfoliation techniques form a cornerstone of spa treatments; enjoyable and beneficial for the client, easy to perform and profitable for the therapist. The treatments we will look at in this article are especially chosen to be simple to do, and are appropriate even for treatment rooms without a shower. Both skin brushing or the loofah scrub can be a brief preliminary to another treatment, a stand alone treatment, or easily incorporated into a spa package.

Why exfoliate?

Exfoliation techniques form a cornerstone of spa treatments; enjoyable and beneficial for the client, easy to perform and profitable for the therapist. The treatments we will look at in this article are especially chosen to be simple to do, and are appropriate even for treatment rooms without a shower. Both skin brushing or the loofah scrub can be a brief preliminary to another treatment, a stand alone treatment, or easily incorporated into a spa package.

Why Exfoliate?

Exfoliation techniques have been used since ancient times, with different cultures using a variety of different instruments to smooth the surface of the skin. Polynesian peoples used seashells, other cultures have used whatever indigenous materials have been at hand: nut and grain meals, dried herbs and plant fibres.

Exfoliation has two major purposes. The first is to smooth and soften the skin. Most exfoliation methods have a mechanical component, essentially loosening and grinding the uppermost layers of dead surface skin. The result is discernibly smoother feeling skin, and clients will often comment that their skin feels wonderful.

The second purpose of exfoliation is to prepare the skin for subsequent treatment. By removing the surface layer of dead cells any further application of products is able to act more effectively on the skin.

Therefore, for example, an exfoliation would be done before a seaweed or mud wrap, or an aromatherapy massage. Although this sequence is not a hard and fast rule - scheduling efficiencies often interfere - it is worth adhering to where possible.

Skin Brushing

Skin brushing is perhaps the simplest of all spa exfoliation treatments. Traditionally it is a technique that has been practiced by Scandinavian peoples as a daily ritual not only for exfoliation effects, but also because of the invigorating, immune system stimulating effects of the brisk brushing action.

In a spa setting skin brushing is usually done using a dry brush, on dry skin. At it's most basic the treatment may consist of quick ten minute brushing prior to a body treatment such as a paraffin mask, seaweed wrap,or body massage. On the other hand a complete skin brushing treatment could take half an hour, use a variety of different brushes, and be a wonderfully indulgent treatment; either soothing or stimulating depending on just how the treatment is performed and presented.

Benefits of Skin Brushing

Skin brushing has a variety of benefits - as well as being an ideal inclusion in a spa treatment menu it is also excellent in an at home maintenance programme. The primary benefits are threefold:

1. Removal of surface dead skin cells: removing the dead, dry cells of the strateum corneum is a primary function of exfoliation treatments. After such a treatment the skin is noticeably smoother, with an improvement in colour, texture and clarity.

2. Improving circulation: dry skin brushing also has the benefit of stimulating circulation to the skin, bringing oxygen and other nutrients to the area for further localized distribution. Typically the skin takes on a rosy glow after a session of brushing. In addition there is often also a sensation of warmth; both are indicative of an increased flow of blood to the area. Skin respiration, a related event, also improves.

3. Stimulating the flow of lymphatic fluid: Along with an increased blood flow resulting from the stimulating friction of dry skin brushing there is also an increase in the flow of lymphatic fluid. There is an extensive network of very fine lymphatic vessels immediately underlying the skin. This lymphatic network exists to provide a first line of defense should the protective barrier provided by the skin be compromised. Dry skin brushing stimulates the flow of lymph in these surface vessels, indirectly aiding the immune function as the lymph continues to flow throughout the body with subsequent filtration by the lymph nodes.

Contraindications

There are few problems associated with performing dry skin brushing, however the following commonsense contraindications should be heeded.

Chronic skin diseases such as psoriasis, eczema and contact dermatitis

Open wounds or recently formed scar tissue

Sunburn

The skin should achieve a healthy pink glow during the treatment, this is indicative of an increased blood flow to the area. Redness can be a sign of irritation.

Tools

The basic tool for skin brushing is a firm, natural bristled, short handled brush, with a head about the size of the palm of the hand. That said, plenty of variations are possible. You may choose a softer brush for clients with delicate skin, a smaller brush for specific areas of the body - eg between the fingers or toes. Synthetic brushes have the advantage of not warping or mildewing after constant cleaning, and you may find that a handleless brush offers more maneuverability.

If you opt to offer this treatment as a half hour treatment you will probably want to select a variety of brushes in order to provide a feast for the senses. Feel free to use different brushes on different parts of the body, and play with texture and sensation.

As with any tool of the beauty therapists trade sanitization is important, brushes should be sterilized after every use, either by immersion in a sterilization solution, or by using a UV or heat sterilization system. Simple spraying with a sanitizing solution is not recommended because of the length and porous nature of the bristles

Techniques

Until the recent advent of fruit acid products most forms of exfoliation were mechanical in nature, and required a certain amount of aggression, especially when used on the body. Dry skin brushing usually takes a brisk and vigorous approach as it also relies on mechanical effects to remove keratinized skin. However with the careful execution of different types of strokes the treatment may take on different shades and nuances, anywhere on the continuum from invigorating to soothing.

Strokes

Several different types of strokes may be employed but in all cases it is best to work towards the heart, and where possible to follow the direction of lymph flow, as illustrated in the accompanying diagrams.

Typically one would work segmentally, eg calf followed by thigh followed by gluteal region. To a large extent the speed and pressure of the strokes will determine whether the treatment is invigorating or soothing. You may employ any of the following types of strokes:

1. Brisk straight strokes, usually 15 - 20cm long with each stroke overlapping slightly to cover the entire area being worked on.

2.. Brisk circular strokes, the size of the circle dependent on the area of the body being worked on. Tiny circles for the feet, larger for the legs, larger still for the back.

3. Gentle straight strokes with the brush followed by effleurage strokes with the hand. This is a good technique for more fragile skin, or when a more nurturing treatment style is desired. With the brush held in one hand stroke once firmly in a straight line. Follow with an effleurage stroke with the other hand, smoothing directly over the path taken by the brush. Proceed hand over hand, and then move to the next area to be brushed.

Procedures

The steps outlined in this section are only a guideline. Whether you choose to start on the front or back of the body will depend on what happens when you finish the treatment - whether the client is immediately receiving another treatment or not. Think your treatment through to minimize unnecessary turning for your client. If you are following with a body wrap you will want to prepare the treatment bed so that the wrap can proceed immediately without having the client stand up, and then lie down again.

1 Prepare treatment table: have available towels or sheets for draping, and, if necessary bolsters for client comfort.

2 With client lying face down, expose the leg. Begin at the heel using strokes of your choice, in an upwards motion. Work the entire segment between ankle and back of the knee. Follow with thigh and then the hip. The duration and intensity of the brushing will depend on the length of the treatment and the client's skin type. More time should be spent on areas of dry, keratinized skin e.g. elbows and knees. When completed cover the leg and repeat procedure on the other leg.

3 Expose the back, and brush fully from hips to neck, and down as far as the elbows on each arm.

4 Have client roll over, carefully maintaining draping protocol, put a drape in place for the breasts if desired.

5 Brush the foot and leg. (You might prefer to brush the foot from the face down position). Begin with the lower leg, follow with the thigh. Bear in mind that the inside of the thigh is often quite sensitive.

6 Brush the abdomen - typically in a clockwise direction. Avoid this onticklish clients!

7 Brush the chest area, working to the edge of the breast tissue for women, avoiding the nipple area on men.

8 Brush the fingers, hands and arms, lifting each arm gently for access to the elbows or any area of the back of the arm that was not already treated.

9 If you wish you can gently brush the hair, use a knobbled brush to stimulate the scalp, or perform a brief scalp massage.

Treatment Completion

To complete the treatment you may choose to apply toner and/or body lotion, and perhaps offer a brief neck and shoulder massage, depending on whether this is a stand alone body treatment or whether the client is proceeding on to another treatment.

Treatment Tips

As with any spa treatment it is the extra attention to detail that will make the difference between an indifferent treatment and a great one.

Environment: one of the most important things to consider is the ambience of the room in which you are offering the treatment. It should be welcoming, and warm enough for client comfort.

Draping: your client should be carefully draped, both for reasons of modesty, and also to maintain body heat. Use towels or a bedsheet.

Personalization: modify the treatment as necessary for your client. It is especially important to ask for feedback about the pressure of the brush strokes. Remember, if your client's skin is turning red the pressure may be too great!

Use of essential oils: aromatherapy is very popular in the spa world.

Consider using a few drops of essential oil on the bristles of the brush you are using, or place a lightly scented cover over your clients eyes while brushing when they are lying face up.

Loofah Scrub

The loofah scrub is a simple modification of skin brushing, and has the same benefits and contraindications.

Tools

The scrub is performed using a damp loofah mitt, or a synthetic alternative - such as the brightly coloured exfoliating mitts found at many beauty therapy wholesalers.

Techniques

1 Prepare the treatment table with a bath towel directly under the client, there will be a small amount of moisture, and the towel will absorb this and keep the client more comfortable than they would be lying on a plastic sheet. Have two other bath towels available for draping your customer.

2 Select a mild body cleanser, either from your usual product line, or that you have chosen especially for this treatment - eg you could perform a Refreshing Mint Body Scrub, or a Mango Body Smoother, depending on the cleanser chosen.

3 Drape your client carefully, covering any segment of the body you are not working on. This is important; since the client's body is dampened they will chill easily. Be especially concerned about client comfort if your room is cool, or draughty.

4 Dampen the mitt slightly with warm water, add a small quantity of your chosen cleanser to the mitt, and begin working the body cleanser over the body. Follow the procedures listed above in the skin brushing section. Use more water and cleanser as necessary. Use a brisk or gentle stroke in keeping with the "motif" of your treatment. For example, a "Refreshing Mint Body Scrub" would use a much brisker stroke than a "Mango Body Smoother."

5 As each body portion (leg, arm, abdomen, etc) is completed wipe off the

cleanser residue. This can be done with the towelling side of the loofah mitt, or by using a moistened, heated towel. Be sure to remove any cleanser residue thoroughly. As you complete each body portion cover carefully with a towel in order to keep the client warm. Complete the back and front of the body, paying special attention to areas that usually have a build up of dry skin - elbows, knees, feet.

6 Perform treatment completion steps as desired - toner, moisturizer, massage or similar.

Christine Cook has been involved in the Spa industry for the last 10 years. Well versed in a wide range of Spa issues, she offers educational and consultancy services for those interested in the development of Resort and Day Spas.

Currently working on a contract in Singapore she welcomes questions and can be reached by email at: Spaseminars@compuserve.com